Your Nova Soctia Tour

Fridays before a long-weekend tend to be slow days – everyone’s already into the long weekend mindset. Ann and I decided to re-visit Fisherman’s Cove in Eastern Passage (on the Dartmouth side of Halifax Harbour) to enjoy a light lunch, plus a walk on the nearby boardwalk.

The Fisherman’s Cove Development Association runs the Cove and is a non-profit, volunteer run organization with the goal of promoting the cultural heritage of Eastern Passage and other ecotourism initiatives, which was founded in 1996. What sets it apart is the location – chosen to conserve an authentic fishing community set in beautiful, natural scenery. Fisherman’s Cove is both frozen in time yet is constantly evolving. It’s home to a unique collection of gift shops, museums and art galleries, delicious restaurants, coffee and bake shops, ice cream canteens, and wonderful fish n’ chip shacks, living side by each with traditional fishermen’s shacks.

We choose Boondocks for our lunch and, it proved to be an excellent choice. The new chef has created a menu full of choices including those Maritime staples, seafood chowder and fishcakes.

After lunch we took a stroll on the boardwalk, with its spectacular views of McNab’s Island, and looking north towards the city of Halifax. The temperature was mild, with a bit of wind coming off the Atlantic. This is a popular spot to come for a pleasant walk and often people with dogs or small children take advantage of the well laid out boardwalk.

Later, we stopped by Clyde T. Henneberry room, and were very pleasantly surprised by the unique exhibits, especially the exclusive gallery of original paintings by this internationally recognized local artist. My eyes were drawn to his painting of the Titanic: a Royal Navy sea-battle scene BUT I was amazed to gaze upon his painting of the CSS Tallahassee, a first for me. I have to give a big thank you, to Angela Maclean, the chairperson of the Fisherman’s Cove Development Association, for showing Ann and I around, it was eye-opening experience.

On our Gold Coast Excursion and our Nova Scotia tours, we visit Fisherman’s Cove and talk about CSS Tallahassee’s connection to Eastern Passage. It was a twin-screw steamer and cruiser in the Confederate States Navy, purchased in 1864, and used for raiding commercial vessels off the Atlantic coast.

Tallahassee was named after the Confederate state capital of Tallahassee, Florida and was built on the River Thames in England, ostensibly for the Chinese opium trade. She was previously known as the blockade runner Atalanta and made the Dover to Calais crossing in 77 minutes, on an even keel. She had made several blockade runs between Bermuda and Wilmington, N.C. before the Confederates bought her.
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John Taylor Wood

After Tallahassee was commissioned and prepared for sea, she was placed under the command of Commander John Taylor Wood, CSN. Wood was a grandson of President Zachary Taylor and nephew of Jefferson Davis, the President of the Confederate States of America. The officers and crew were all volunteers from Confederate gunboats on the James River and in North Carolina waters.

The Tallahassee went through the blockade on August 6, 1864 from her home port of Wilmington, North Carolina. On her first day out, four cruisers chased theTallahassee without incident.

She made a spectacular 19-day raid off the Atlantic coast, sailing as far north as Halifax, Nova Scotia. She destroyed 26 vessels and captured seven others that were bonded or released. Wood sailed Tallahassee into Halifax on August 18, 1864 to take on bunker coal and water. Neutrality laws limited her stay in Halifax to 24 hours but Tallahassee was granted an extra 12 hours to fix a broken mast. The deal – she was only allowed to load enough coal to take her to the nearest Confederate port. Two Federal war ships, USS Nansemond and USS Huron, had chased her north and were waiting for Tallahassee at the harbour’s entrance.
Wood hired a legendary Halifax harbour pilot John “Jock” Fleming, who guided the warship through the narrow and shallow Eastern Passage between the Dartmouth side of the harbour and McNab’s Island, a route with constantly shifting sandbars, suited only for small fishing vessels and yachts. By carefully taking soundings, and advantage of a higher full moon tide, Fleming successfully negotiated Tallahassee through the passage out of the harbour and past the waiting Federal warships in the dead of night.

As he was unable to procure enough coal to continue, Wood was forced to return to Wilmington where he arrived safely on August 26. At the end of the Civil War, Wood returned to Halifax to live and he is buried in Camp Hill Cemetery in Halifax.

Over time the Tallahassee was renamed, first CSS Olustee, later CSS Chameleon, and ended its career by being interned by the British Government and handed over the United States authorities. Fleming’s piloting Tallahassee through the Passage is commemorated in the name of the local school.
Fisherman’s Cove has proven to be both a very interesting and worthwhile stop for Blue Diamond Tours’ excursions and trips. The Clyde T Henneberry Room has been added to our itinerary so visitors can see this renowned painter’s work.

As we offer customized trips and excursions, we can make Fisherman’s Cove, the focus of your trip, if you so desire.

We’ll meet you at the Pier when your ship docks and, from there, we’ll head out, with a brief coffee and rest stop.  From there, we’ll show you some of the highlights of Halifax, including a stop at the Dingle Tower, donated by Sir Sanford Fleming, the creator of standard time, to commemorate 150 years of representative government in Nova Scotia.

As we leave the Dingle Park, remind your driver to show you the 2000 pound anchor shaft from the Mont Blanc – blown to this spot from 3 miles away – on December 6, 1917, the infamous Halifax Explosion.

From there, we’ll head out scenic route 333 passing sheltered bays and fishing villages until we come to West Dover.  There we’ll stop at the government wharf for a brief picture stop and a view of the rocky Peggy’s Cove shoreline to the west.

As we approach Peggy’s Cove, the landscape changes dramatically.  The boggy soil is only good for blueberries and cranberries while teetering glacial erratics top the craggy hills.  If you think you’re travelling through a moonscape, you’re not too far off!

Just before Peggy’s Cove, you’ll start to see the rolling waves of the Atlantic Ocean.  We’ll pull into the visitor’s centre for two reasons – a restroom stop and a chance to see the sculpture William Degarthe carved into the hunk of granite in his back yard.  Then it’s a drive through the village, passing the most photographed scene in all of Canada before arriving at our destination – the Peggy’s Cove lighthouse.

After you’ve had time to explore the Cove – its shops, galleries, restaurant, and ice cream, we’ll head back to Halifax travelling along the Saint Margaret’s Bay.

There you’ll see the year round homes of residents cheek by jowl with cottages owned by Haligonians and the mansions of Mariner’s Anchorage.  We’ll tell you tales of rum running, sea monsters, and even aerospace as we pass Nautel in Hackett’s Cove.  There are spots to stop for pictures and, if you wish, we will stop at the striking Swiss Air memorial at the Whalesback.

Our final stop before hitting the highway back to the pier, is at Acadian Maple where you will learn about this truly Canadian treat, have a sample, and pick up some treasures to take back home (and we guarantee you will NOT miss your sailing at the end of your day!)

Halifax has a strong reputation as a city where there’s music on every corner and that’s especially true during this year’s 25^th annual East Coast Music Week, from March 6-10.  Everywhere you turn, you’ll see established musicians and up and comers on the various showcase stages.  Everything comes together with the awards gala on the final night.  This event began in a Halifax bar a quarter of a century ago and has grown to be one of this country’s major events.  Don’t miss it!

For the first ten days of February, you can join in more than 40 events around the province to celebrate the harvest of our local ice wine.  This is a delicacy that is a specialty of many of our Nova Scotia wineries.  During the festival, you can sample icewine paired with local cuisine, learn how Icewine is made, or even try your hand at pruning the vines.  During the Winter Icewine Festival our Nova Scotian winemakers and many of the province’s finest chefs come together to celebrate their passion this wonderful product of our wine industry.

It’s not unusual to see bald eagles soaring over the floor of the Annapolis Valley.  During the 20^th Annual Eagle Watch weekends (January 26-7 and February 2-3), you can break the winter doldrums by going down to see these majestic raptors up close in the community of Sheffield Mills.  Start your day with a hearty sausage and pancake breakfast before heading out to look for the birds. The local organizers set up feeding stations at 8 am and 10 am where the eagles swoop down for their morning bite of brekkie.  Then, they like to sit on the various trees surrounding the feeding areas and spend the day watching the world go by and, no doubt, gossiping about the antics of the humans they see!  Bring your camera, you will not be disappointed.

Bandstand at the Halifax Public Gardens

Everyone knows the Halifax Public Gardens as a wonderful place to visit in the spring, summer, and fall.  This year, watch to see if the gates at the corner of Spring Garden and South Park and Sackville and Summer Streets are open.  If so, then the Gardens are open to the public during daylight hours.  Walk the gravel paths, enjoy the snow laden trees, revel in the lengthening days leading up to spring, and take solace in this quiet place in the middle of the bustling city.

Plan to see the flowerpots at least twice – at high and low tides. When the tide is high, you can kayak around these wonders of nature carved by the power of the highest tides in the world. Then, when the tide has receded, you can look up, way up, at these flowerpots and marvel at how the trees survive in such a rugged environment. When you leave, you will have a greater respect for Mother Nature’s power and beauty.

The story of Nova Scotia unfolds along this trail – the historic bridge that tells of one man’s dreams to cross the Isthmus of Chignecto, the Acadian dykes, and the Gaelic street signs in Pugwash. Arts and craft shops abound and you can sample some of our finest wines at Malagash. All the way along the Sunrise Trail, you’ll see miles of red sandy beaches extending as far as the eye can see. Stop and take a dip – the warmth of the water will surprise you

is a feast for the senses tucked into the beautiful North Shore of PEI. The garden, with its view towards the National Park, is a gardener’s delight, full of beautiful flowers and plants. The Gallery showcases the finest quality of arts and crafts and your stomach is rewarded by the artistically prepared meals in the restaurant. Pure heaven on earth on one of the world’s most magical Islands!

Scots came to Prince Edward Island in the late 1770s. Since then, they’ve kept their heritage alive in story and song and that’s what you’ll see at Summerside’s College of Piping. Their pipers, singers, and dancers are all world class – and you’ll come away from your visit with their stirring music resonating through your head and your toes continuously tapping.