The Ceilidh Trail

Yes, more golden treasures of touring in Nova Scotia. We refer to the “The Ceilidh Trail“ (ceilidh is pronounced kay-lee and is a Gaelic word meaning party or gathering)

We begin by taking Nova Scotia Route 19 from Port Hastings to Dunvegan, and then Route 219 to Margaree Harbour.  This roadway clings to a rugged shoreline (Saint George’s Bay of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence which is Canada’s in-land sea) along the thickly-wooded, mountainous and rough terrain of central Cape Breton Island (Creignish, Big Ridge Mountains and Mabou Highlands).  The scenery here is spectacular year round, so one can visit during any season and be refreshed by the serenity, landscape and beauty that abounds in this unique area of Scottish Cape Breton.

You might venture along Colindale Road and follow the very scenic coastline from Port Hood to Mabou and marvel at the rolling countryside and stunning seascapes found around every turn in the road.

Port Hood, the second largest community on the Ceilidh Trail, is known as the ‘step-dancing capital of Cape Breton’ as well as it’s close proximity to the near-by ‘warm water’ sandy beaches.  It also marks the start of the Mabou Highlands which rise to approximately 1000 feet above sea level.  These highlands are somewhat reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands, which attracted many early Scottish settlers to this region in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s.

At the south end of the village of Mabou you will find Strathspey Place which is a beautiful, state-of-the-art Cape Breton Island theatre where concerts are held year-round.  North of the theatre and a right turn off Route 19 will lead you to the small but charming Mother of Sorrows Pioneer Shrine and Gift Shop.

On entering Mabou, you’ll notice the graceful spire of St. Mary’s Church.  Just across the bridge, you’ll find the Mabou Gaelic and Historical Society Museum, An Drochaid (The Bridge) which houses local genealogical and historic records as well as serving as a forum for local musicians, storytellers and poets.

Just north of Mabou is the Town of Glenville where you’ll find a true gem of Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, namely, the Glen Breton Distillery, renowned for it’s Rare Canadian Single Malt Whisky which is the only single malt whisky produced in Canada.  It is produced using the traditional copper pot stills method and only three ingredients: barley, yeast and water.  It cannot be called ‘Scotch’ unless it is produced in Scotland, hence the name, Canadian Single Malt Whisky.  Glen Breton offers a guided tour of their operation, a fine restaurant, walking trails and even provides over-night accommodations.

Inverness is the largest community on the Ceilidh Trail.  This community offers harness racing, several hiking trails, and an extensive boardwalk alongside one of the most popular, sandy beaches on The Ceilidh Trail.  Built in 1901, the CN Railway Station is now the home of the Inverness Miner’s Museum which highlights the region’s rich coal-mining history and culture.  The works of local artists and artisans are displayed at the museum as well as at the art gallery in the Inverness County Centre for the Arts.

To get to the Town of Dunvegan along one of Cape Breton’s most magnificently scenic stretches of coastline, turn left at Broad Cove and follow a narrow, gravel road that clings to the edge of bluffs high above the sea (approximately nine kilometres / 5.5 miles).

Held the last Sunday in July, the open-air Broad Cove Concert is one of Cape Breton’s most popular Scottish music festivals.

Once at Dunvegan, continue along Route 219.  This country road follows the beautiful Cape Breton coastline through St. Rose and Chimney Corner, joining the Cabot Trail at Margaree Harbour. Watch for a road on the left leading to The Whale Cove Cemetery where the coastal bluffs offersuperb views of the dramatic rise of the Cape Breton Highlands, Margaree Island (a Canadian bird sanctuary) and Margaree’s three, warm water, sandy beaches.

Entering Margaree Harbour, the Ceilidh Trail crests presenting a panoramic view of this picturesque fishing community with its lighthouses, colourful homes, beaches and sparkling anchorages.  Just beyond the village is the junction of the Ceilidh and Cabot Trails.

From Shag Harbour to Cape North, the “Hidden Treasures of Nova Scotia” await your arrival.  Let us help with your trip of discovery!

The Gold Coast

Much of Nova Scotia’s gold was discovered on the eastern shore and surrounding area of our beautiful province which is why we at Blue Diamond Tours refer to this region as The Gold Coast.

You can discover another “gold nugget” of Nova Scotia on the south shore of our storied province.  We’d like to highlight the communities of Terrence Bay, Lower Prospect and Sandy Cove, areas rich in family history, culture and chock full of rugged Atlantic coves, inlets, and sandy beaches.  This area also has an active fishing industry.

This area has it all; from it’s fishing heritage to its seaside locales that rival (and in some ways,  surpass) the world-renowned Peggy’s Cove.  Local history includes a ship wreck, the SS Atlantic, which was a White Star Liner that crashed into the rocky shoreline of Marr’s Head, on April 1, 1878.  While 562 lives were lost that day, members of the community managed to save 390 souls.  White Star made headlines again on April 12, 1912, when the Titanic sank off the coast of Newfoundland.  It would seem that April is an unlucky month for White Star Lines!

The ice-sculpted landscape throughout these communities delights the senses at every turn.  From the abundance of spruce and fir trees which cling to the shoreline of the numerous coves, inlets, tiny bays and equally tiny sand beaches, to the fabulous rocky headlands, there’s plenty of sights to delight the eye.

During your visit you can expect to see seals, cormorants, blue herons, and fishermen working at their craft.  Plus, we have to mention the “funky” folk art that abounds here and is seemingly around every turn of the road.  World-renowned folk artist Joe Norris lived and worked here in Lower Prospect.  His environment is reflected in his paintings with his use of bright enamel colours.  His work is much sought after by collectors.

Another name connected to this community is Irene Ryan who played the role of  “Granny” on The  Beverly Hillbillies.  She is a descendant of the early settlers of this area.

As a memorial for the SS Atlantic, there is an Interpretation Centre which contains a small museum of artifacts from the ship and some panels which detail the story.  There is also a small gift shop as well.  Outside you can stroll a “walking pathway” which wraps itself around the coastline and has strategically-placed interpretative panels to tell the story and point out the headlands.  There is a gazebo where you can rest and view the area, or you may wish to walk to Sandy Beach and it’s lighthouse for an up close view of Marr’s Head and the open Atlantic.

For the more adventuresome, you can sea-kayak in and around the bays and even into the Atlantic itself.  East Coast Outfitters of Lower Prospect will take care of your every need and get you off to a true adventure.

For assistance with touring this area, arranging for sea-kayaking with East Coast Outfitters with our friend Dave, and much more, contact us at www.BlueDiamondTours.com.

It cannot be emphasized enough that the Lower Prospect area is a most worthwhile Nova Scotia Travel Experience and is in every way, a true ‘gem’ and ‘hidden treasure’ of our province.

A Secret Halifax Community

Click to ViewThere are two historic sites or neighborhoods within walking distance of the cruise ship dock. Begin by heading north towards the Harbour Walk sign and around the Garrison Brew Pub, veer left and follow Marginal Road to Hollis Street. The Westin Hotel should be on your left.

At Hollis Street, turn left to pass Cornwallis Park (on your right). Here you’ll see the statue of our founder, Edward Cornwallis, looking out to sea wishing he hadn’t left England back in 1752.

Arriving at Barrington Street, turn left and head south until you come upon a Tim Horton’s on your left. Almost directly across the street from Tim Horton’s is Smith Street where you will find twelve simple wooden row houses dating from the 1860’s. The street and houses have been designated Heritage Properties by Nova Scotia. This Victorian complex was almost destroyed by fire in 1999, but has been faithfully and completely restored to its former glory on the outside with the interiors being totally modern.

Some may be interested to know that water from Freshwater Stream from Griffins Pond in the Public Gardens is flowing to Halifax Harbour in underground culverts located in and around Smith Street.

Leaving Smith Street, take a left on Barrington and head north until you arrive at Morris Street . Time for a snack? Try Papa Marios or the Thai Restaurant across the street on the other corner.

Take a left at the corner of Barrington and Morris and head up the street. As you proceed up Morris Street, you’ll cross over Church Street . On the west corner of Church and Morris you will find the oldest existing apartment building in Halifax.

Crossing over Queen Street (you’ll see Atlantic News on the west corner), you’ll pass by Spenser House & Saint Mary’s School (both on your left) and you’ll come to a number of fine examples of Victorian housing on both sides of Morris Street, both row and detached homes .

Turn left from Morris Street onto Wright Avenue . This 1897 subdivision is a closely guarded secret which most citizens of Halifax do not know about.

Mr. George W. Wright was a very wealthy and prominent native son. He acquired his wealth by publishing business directories in the United States. Mr. Wright developed the block of land starting from Wright Avenue to the east side of South Park Street and south to Holy Cross Cemetery.

The Wright Avenue portion of this area was designed by a local architect to be a “mixed income subdivision“ with residents working jobs as varied as banking to the trades . You’ll note the Victorian row housing is much different here than that found on Smith Street.
In 1912 Mr. Wright was in England, and although not originally booked to sail on the ill-fated Titanic, purchased a ticket from another passenger. Sadly, he did not survive and his body was never recovered.

At Holy Cross Cemetery, you’ll find Our Lady of Sorrows Chapel, known as the church that was built in one day! It was built on August 23, 1843 by 2000 Roman Catholic parishioners. It seats up to 70 people, has a large stained glass window dating from 1661, and wood carvings brought over from a Flemish church founded in 1550.

Among the many who are buried at Holy Cross Cemetery are two of note:

Charles Robinson was a U.S. Medal of Honor recipient from Yazoo River, Mississippi. He was born December 23, 1862, and died April 21, 1896.

Sir John Sparrow Thompson was the fourth Prime Minister of Canada. He was born in Halifax in 1844, was Premier of Nova Scotia in 1882, and died in London, England on December 12, 1894, only a few minutes after being knighted by Queen Victoria.

Leaving the Wright Avenue / Holy Cross area and returning to Morris Street, turn left and proceed to South Park Street where you will see Victoria Park ahead to the left and All Saints Cathedral on the other side of the park.

All Saints Cathedral opened in 1910 and is an example of Gothic architecture. Visitors are welcomed. The church is well known for its stained glass windows, wood carvings of its pulpit and chancel, and the handmade needlework on the kneelers and bishop’s stall.

Leaving the cathedral, walk north along Victoria Park where you’ll find statues of Robbie Burns and Sir Walter Scott. You will come to Spring Garden Road where you’ll find the Public Gardens (see other parts of our The Almost Free Family Fun in Halifax, Nova Scotia DIY Cruise Ship Excursion to continue your self guiding tour of this great port city). The free bus, FRED, has a stop nearby as well.

If you turn right on Spring Garden Road and walk to the end (Barrington Street), you’ll find the Old Burying Grounds will be on your right hand side with the entrance off Barrington Street. Here you will find many interesting headstones with many odd writings and more as the old fashioned workman was not always very good.

Buried in this cemetery is “the man who made the White House” in Washington D.C., Major General Robert Ross. He lead British troops in the capture of Washington on August 24, 1814, and ordered the burning of the Capitol and the President’s House which is now the White House, which was painted white to cover the black burn marks.

General Ross died in combat attacking Fort McHenry on September 12, 1814. His body was preserved in 129 gallons of Jamaican Rum and originally destined for Ireland, but the British continued on to New Orleans so the body was sent to Halifax for interment.

Enjoy, and until next time,

Bob

F is for Fundy, the Bay of Fundy that is.

Yes, still more “golden nuggets” of touring in Nova Scotia.  “Touring Gold “ can be yours – no matter the season – here in Nova Scotia!

F is for Fundy, the Bay of Fundy that is, where you’ll find the highest tides in the world!  Your first destination on the Glooscap Trail is the Maitland area of Nova Scotia which includes the shores of Cobequid Bay, Minas Basin, and the Shubenacadie River, and while not as well known as other destinations in Nova Scotia, it is certainly worth the trip!  According to MikMaq legend, Glooscap was a God-like man who lived in the high bluffs of Cape Blomidon overlooking the Bay of Fundy. He was created by the Great Spirit Creator and brought to life with a lightning bolt striking sand. Glooscap brought wisdom and knowledge to the MikMaq people and created the Bay of Fundy by smashing an evil beaver’s dam.

On this trip you will experience unparalleled vistas of stunning, natural, scenic beauty not found elsewhere in Nova Scotia.  We’ll visit the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Center and Tidal Observation Deck where you can learn about the highest tides in the world and the unique Tidal Bore.  From here, you will be able to stroll the easy-to-walk nature trail.  The nature trail has a number of self-interpretive boards, as well as bird watching sites and picnic tables.  Sit and relax and take in the surroundings, or purchase a snack lunch at the South Maitland Village Heritage Park and enjoy your meal al fresco!  Learn about the impact of Fundy’s tides along the Shubenacadie’s river flats.  At the nearby Caboose Museum, there are displays which describe the heyday of Sail and Rail in this region of Nova Scotia.

The Tidal Bore is a natural phenomenon of the Bay of Fundy’s extremely high tides.  In V-shaped bays and inlets, the incoming tide ‘piles up’ as it moves inland into the Shubenacadie River which creates a rippling wave of water which varies in height from a few inches to several feet.  This wave is called the Tidal Bore.  As an added bonus, if tide and the time of your visit are in sync, you can arrange to Ride the Bore.  (Tidal Bore Rafting Park & Cottages)

The next part of this truly amazing day is to tour along Route 236 to the Salmon River Tidal Bore Park near Truro.  Again, with tide (the incoming bore) and time cooperating, you might see the Tidal Bore ‘up front and personal’ – it is a truly amazing sight.  There is a short video (approximately ten minutes +/-) here which details Fundy’s Tides and the Bore as well.  It is very informative and you will be glad you took the time to view it.

Your final stop on this outing will be at the Glooscap Heritage Centre near the Salmon River Park. This is a unique opportunity to learn about Mi’kmaq heritage and the true story and importance of Glooscap, all interwoven with the Bay of Fundy and its tides.  Allow a full hour to explore this “hidden treasure of Nova Scotia“, and again, you’ll be pleased you did.

From Shag Harbour to Cape North, the “ Hidden Treasures “ of Nova Scotia await your arrival.  Let us help with your trip of discovery!  Check us out on the web at www.BlueDiamondTours.com, and let us help you with your Nova Scotia Touring / Travel experience!

Hidden Treasures in our own backyard.

Gold was discovered in Nova Scotia as early as 1578.  “Touring gold” is still being discovered everyday in Nova Scotia.  There is no reason to travel halfway around the world to find exotic and scenic places, we have them right here in your own backyard, Nova Scotia.

Blue Diamond Tours has been conducting tours in Nova Scotia since the mid-1990’s and has discovered ( or re-discovered ) some true “ gems”, among them:

  • tidal bore rafting on the Shubenacadie River
  • sea-kayaking
  • Malagash Salt Museum ( the story/history of salt mining and export in N.S. )
  • Jost Winery ( the story of wine and wine making in N.S. )
  • The Town of Pictou – it’s shops, history and the Hector
  • Taylor Head Beach and hiking in it’s Provincial Park
  • Cape Forchu Lighthouse – near Yarmouth – see the “Cat” too!
  • Firefighter’s Museum – Yarmouth
  • The Habitation – replica of the first permanent French settlement in North America
  • Highland Village in Cape Breton – a typical displaced highlander’s homestead in early N.S.
  • Fortress Louisbourg – a national treasure
  • The Cabot Trail
  • The Joggins Fossil Cliffs
  • the Sunrise Trail

These are just a few of the many golden treasures of touring in Nova Scotia, and many would say too few or this or that should have been included. Truthfully, there are just too many treasures awaiting discovery here in New Scotland.

Equally true, that each time we travel and tour through Nova Scotia, we discover new to us places, sites or activities that add to our Nova Scotia Travel Experience, and get incorporated into future tours.

You can too, whether you travel on your own or on/with a trip arranged by a firm like ours, you will discover a new nugget, to the scenic wonder that is Nova Scotia. Be it, the hidden corners of historic Halifax, the little known beaches through-out the province, or the beat of our music; Celtic Colours International in Cape Breton in early October, the Atlantic Jazz Festival, in mid July in Halifax or the Acadian Festival at Church Point, music abounds through out the province – just waiting for you.

From Shag Harbour to Cape North the “hidden treasures ” of Nova Scotia await your arrival.  Let your trip of discovery begin. If you need help… call me.

Saint Paul’s Church & Grand Parade

St. Paul's Church

Click the image to see the snapshots

This and the snap shots are an addition to our original Blue Diamond Exclusive The Almost Free DIY Cruise Ship Excursion: and some new activities outline for our Almost Free Family Fun in Halifax – Nova Scotia!

The original DIY Cruise Ship Excursion had you taking a Harbour Cruise on the Halifax – Dartmouth Ferry, which has been in continuous operation since 1750.  This is still a great idea as you will see and learn much during your harbour cruise.

Our snapshots show the ferry leaving the terminal, and then the view as you walk up George Street where you will pass the Celtic Cross, in memory of the Irish Settlers of Halifax (that’s settlers not Irish Setters!).

As you travel west towards Barrington Street and the Grand Parade, on the left you will pass Province House where the Nova Scotia Legislature has met every year since 1819.  Our provincial building is Canada’s oldest seat of government.  In fact, in 2008 we celebrated 250 years of responsible representative government.  The building is considered to be one of finest examples of Palladian architecture in North America.

The next snapshot is of (insert # 954)  the same corner (Granville Street at George Street) that is depicted in the oil painting in our friend’s condo, although there is no Binny Streetcar today!  (see Bishop’s Landing blog of April, 2009).

Arriving at Barrington Street, if you look to the left you will see an original wall-painting on the side of a George Wright building (check out A Secret Halifax - April 9, 2009), and Saint Paul’s Church circa 1750.  To the right, north on Barrington Street (on the same side of the street as the Grand Parade) is a Metro Transit bus stop.  FRED (Free Rides Everywhere Downtown – See Halifax with Fred August 20, 2008) stops here, as does the #1 Spring Garden bus which will take you to Mumford Road Bus Terminal which is where the Halifax Shopping Center is located.

Saint Paul’s Church parish, which was founded by Royal Decree in 1749,  and the church building which dates from 1750, is the oldest church in Halifax. The design of the church is based on St. Peter’s Church, Vere Street, London.  The timbers were cut in Boston and shipped here along with other building materials, although local materials and bricks were used as well. The design, materials and construction have stood the test of time.  We encourage you to explore the interior of this historic and great church.

Halifax City Hall standsat the north end of the Grand Parade, which was designed in 1749, and is found on the original ‘blueprints’ for the city of Halifax.  Halifax City Hall is a Victorian-style building(circa 1888) and is the original site of Dalhousie University, the largest university in Nova Scotia (est. 1819).  We encourage you to visit our City Hall and Saint Paul’s Church as both are National Historic Sites.

To the west is the original location of the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design (NSCAD), founded by Anna Leonowens, (the Anna of The King and I) and constructed in 1887.  The new campus for NSCAD is now located at Pier 20 – the Cruise Ship Pavillon.

To the west you will see a building that was a funeral home and helped with the burial of Titanic victims (April 12, 1912).  With our DIY Cruise Ship Excursion, you could use Metro Transit to get to The Fairview Lawn Cemetery where most of the victims of this tragedy are buried.

Also to the west, you will find Halifax’s World Trade & Convention Center.  If you look at the roof of the building you will see the Schooner Bluenose as a weather-vane.  Up the street from The World Trade and Convention Centre you will see The Citadel Fortress.  The original fort was built in 1749, however the fort on the site today is actually the fourth fort and is circa 1826.  On the slopes of Citadel Hill you will see the Old Town Clock (circa 1803) with the signal masts of the fort in the background protruding above the fort walls.  These signal masts were used before radio as a means of communication between fortified sites around the harbour.  One mast was for commercial purposes, and was used by Halifax merchants to learn when ships were coming into port and/or to order stevedoring crews to unload their ship.

From here you may wish to continue up George Street (renamed Carmichael Street) to Brunswick Street where you will see the steps leading up to the Old Town Clock and the Citadel Fortress. Remember, FRED can also take you there as well as ‘he’ runs on a 40 minute schedule and is FREE.

Alternately, you may wish to return to Chebucto Landing (the Ferry Terminal area), or perhaps you may want to visit The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia (founded 1908)which is located in the old Dominion Building (circa 1867) and is found on the southeast corner of George and Hollis Streets “The gallery has over 9000 works of art in its varied collection, ranging from Nova Scotian folk art to Inuit stone carvings.  One of the most popular attractions in the gallery is the restored former home of rural folk artist Maud Lewis.”.  Both Province House (which has daily free guided tours) and The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia are worth the time to visit.

In the center of Chebucto Landing (the Ferry Terminal area) you will find the Old Dockyard Clock  (1767) that served Halifax’s Naval Dockyard from 1772 until 1993.  And, as you are aware, Chebucto Landing is on the Harbour Walk, so if you turn right you are cruise ship bound, or if you turn left, you will be heading towards the Casino area on the harbour which is next to Canada’s Naval Dockyard facilities.

FRED stops at the Metro Terminal next to Perk’s Restaurant, and from this location you can catch both Metro Transit Routes #2 and #4 (among many other buses) from which to start the original DIY Cruise Ship Excursion - June 21, 2008.  As always, this DIY Cruise Ship Excursion is FREE but if you wish to do this and much more, Blue Diamond Tours will create a “Perfect Shore Excursion in Halifax” for you.

Thank you, and cheers!

Bob